How to lead belay with atc. Here’s a review from an REI expert.

How to lead belay with atc. Most of the people I lead climb with were already using a Grigri when they began leading and learned that way. If you’re old, learn the “new” Petzl belay technique. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m What's a normal recovery time (as in, how long should I let it heal before getting back to climbing and belaying), and what's the best way to heal it the right way? Should I switch to a grigri instead of an ATC? Is there a video showing a better lead belay method that wouldn't open us up to the danger of bad timing like this? I appreciate the Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Lead Belaying: These articles explain everything you need to know to safely climb at any indoor wall. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. Are there situations when other options can be useful? I was wondering if it is better to learn lead belay on an ATC and later transition to a grigri or just go strait to belaying with a grigri? I will be learning in a gym with no intent to climb multi pitch outdoor or anything yet. 1x Rocky Talky. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. Jun 21, 2023 · Belaying is the method by which a person maintains friction on a rope to keep the attached climber from falling or falling to the ground. It’s been great. As such, this device cannot be used for double-rope rappels and, on a multi-pitch climb that requires you to rappel, needs to be supplemented by an ATC guide. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. indoors where you aren't doing multi-pitches) or from the belay station (anchor) itself. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, with excellent feeding and pulling in guide mode, the ATC-Guide is ready for any multi-pitching mission from wandering granite routes in the Bugaboos to bomber limestone in El Potrero. Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. In this video, the AAC applies the fundamental principles of belay to lead belaying, and divides lead belaying into 5 skill blocks: 1. the second climber). This is also known as belaying the second (i. Dont forget, you will need your own rope, unless your gym has them Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. You simply insert the bight of your The Lead Climbing Class prepares climbers for the sharp end. 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) 1x Grigri for lead belay, and most of my top belaying. Jul 23, 2015 · The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. If you need to learn these procedures, they are safely taught in our introduction to climbing class, “ Learn to Sport Lead ” Course. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the A GRIGRI is a great choice for belaying a lead climber, but the technique is slightly more complicated than belaying with a more traditional tubular-style device like an ATC. It is lightweight, durable, and relatively safe compared to earlier designed devices like the figure eight. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the lowest priced one in our review. In order to pay out slack, you need to override the cam while still holding onto the brake strand. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. To me, it looked like a better built Pilot at $15 cheaper, so I gave it a shot. They likely search for a locking carabiner on the cluster of items that have amassed on their harness or they look for their PAS (personal anchor system) in which to clip the anchor. And learn how to lead belay with them. The standard ATC, today, can Learn how to belay a lead climber with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. Looks like mansplaining to me. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Dec 16, 2017 · 8 When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Mar 10, 2025 · Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous fall. Start by learning how to belay top-roping climbers. It is mindboggling to compile a list of all rappel gears in one place. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Switching between the Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Tubular Belay Devices The most common type of belay device used in climbing today is a tubular belay device, aka ATC, which stands for “air traffic controller. (Gri- Gri’s are allowed to be used after successful completion of test) All Lead tests are tested on 5. I got it to have an assistant braking device for outdoor lead climbing. Feb 12, 2021 · The reason why is because these devices help you really understand how belay devices work—as well as universal principles such as how to keep your brake hand on the rope, and why that’s so important. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. A beginners guide to belaying a lead climber. Lead Climbing Clinic Anchors Feb 12, 2018 · Setting up a belay device Belay device – I’ve been to gyms where you test belaying on your own ATC device or use the devices set on the climbing gym ropes (usually a grigri, which is an assisted braking device). Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed A belaying definition Why is belaying so important? Belaying devices Step-by-step guides on how to belay safely Top rope belaying with an ATC Top rope belaying with a Grigri Belay certification What is belaying? A belaying definition Belaying in the simplest terms is the means by which a stationary non-climber prevents a climber from falling to Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Reply reply crooked859 • The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. Let’s learn more! May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. The ATC XP is designed in the classic tube shape but with a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. #rockclimbing #belaying #safety Oct 4, 2024 · They are my standard belay device for single pitch climbing, but I always need to check the system each time, and hang onto the brake rope. It’s similar to an ATC to use, pays out slack easier than other assisted braking devices, and is easy for most to pick up. If the rope is frozen or once or twice after dropping the belay device I use a munther hitch. That is confusing to me. I wonder why one particular trip would require a specific belay device though. In this class you will learn how to lead belay (w/ Gri-Gri and ATC Pilot), communicate and check gear, properly clip, and fall as safely as possible. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. The smart is my favourite belay device. Sep 14, 2020 · If you’ve top roped a bit and are jumping into lead climbing we think the Beal Birdie is the best beginner belay device for lead climbers. They don't generate a lot of braking force which I understand is at least one of the reasons they have gone out of favor. The fallen climber is held by the belay device, until the belayer decides to lower the climber by rotating the device and modulating the lowering speed with their brake hand. Figure-8 belay devices (e. There's only so many basic belay device designs, and having started with ATCs, I never let go with my brake hand. Belaying in Guide Mode on rope belays with a Black Diamond ATC Guide, DMM Pivot etc. All of these modes allows for a nearly endless number of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, making this the most versatile device we have used. Use of the old-school tube-style belay technique is not recommended (where you bring the brake rope above and parallel with the lead side to take in or give out slack). When I teach newcomers to belay, I try to show them as many scenarios and examples of proper belaying and let them practice a ton with said examples until it clicks how belaying works and how the equipment works when used properly. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Fairly new climber here, I learned to lead belay with an ATC, but recently got a Grigri and feel a lot more confident with it. 0, with the idea that it’s cheaper than a GRIGRI and “safer” than a normal ATC XP. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable First, an effective lead belay requires a certain amount of technique and practice. Jul 20, 2013 · When the second climber arrives at the belay, they are looking to be secured to the belay so you can switch them over to lead belaying instead of auto-block mode. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the leader slack as he or she climbs. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso, etc), but they require the same belay technique. Gym climbing is the most convenient way to build your lead climbing skill set that can then be applied Jul 13, 2018 · The results We found the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to be incredibly intuitive with a quick learning curve to become proficient in both lead and top-rope belaying. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. (For an overview of lead belaying, read, How to Belay a Lead Climber. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Plate-style belay devices (e. Seven tips—to work on now and, as climber and belayer, continually. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. Make sure your rope is I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. Lead belay testing must be done with an ATC/tube-style device. Jul 22, 2025 · There are a large variety of belay devices on the market. Can someone experienced please compare those types of belaying? What are pros and cons? Sep 24, 2019 · A top-down direct anchor belay with Edelrid’s Giga Jul Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. I recently started using a Mammut Smart 2. Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. I think what they mean is the ATC's lack of instant catch. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. May 20, 2022 · This trick works best if you belay your second off the master point with a self-locking belay device (Reverso, ATC Guide, etc. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. That’s cool. Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. You'd have to ask them, but I wouldn't choose to, particularly for lead belay. ” Simple Belaying Techniques: This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! Feb 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. Jan 3, 2024 · Black Diamond ATC Pilot vs GriGri The ATC pilot, another Black Diamond belay device, is a tube-style device. Some gyms test on both the ATC and grigri so knowing how to use both may help you pass. Dec 16, 2022 · What's a Belay Device? A Brief History of Belay Devices Top Roping and Lead Belaying Rappelling with a Belay Device The Different Types of Belay Devices Comparison Table 1. In this REI Expert Advice video, we demonstrate how to Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may… Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. 1. How to Lead Belay with a Grigri What is belaying? Where can I learn to belay? Belay commands How to top-rope belay Belaying with an ATC or other tube-style device How to lower with an ATC Belaying with a Gri-gri or other assisted-braking device How to lower with a Gri-Gri What is belaying? Whenever you climb on a rope, someone has to hold the other end to catch you if you fall. I use body, shoulder, biner, feature, axe, running and hand over hand when suitable in the alpine. 1x Metolius Alpine PAS, with locker. e. Jun 30, 2023 · You have to know how to top rope and lead belay if you want to keep yourself and your partner safe while rock climbing. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. Tube-style devices Black Diamond ATC Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond ATC-XP 4. The second biggest offense is not reading the climber nor communicating effectively. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. You c Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. Simple too. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. ⏩ NEXT CLASS: • Complete Guide to Carabiners Belaying a lead climber from a multi-pitch stance is not very different to belaying a leader from the ground. Don't beat yourself up over it. A poor traditional anchor made out of necessity: belaying off your belay loop allows you to use your body to try to reduce the forces that make it to an anchor. There are three ways to belay from above: Off the harness Through a redirect Off the anchor itself Belaying off the anchor is almost always the best option. 5 mm range. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Grigri's vs ATCs: This really grinds my gears As someone who learned to lead belay using an ATC first, and who for a while felt much more comfortable using an ATC over a Grigri, all climbers should be more comfortable using a Grigri. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. I know that I'm doing everything right mechanically. With an ATC the rope should just feed through smoothly. This hack prevents that, as well as cross loading - which is where force is distributed down the minor axis (short edge) of the carabiner, rather than the much I just got into climbing and have gotten myself both top rope and lead certified through a certified course. Learn to lead climb, top rope and lead belay safely. ) So, I started asking questions. What is an ATC in rock climbing? READ: Is 96 a good score in NATA? When you're belaying for someone who is climbing, you want your complete attention to be on what you're doing. Aug 24, 2013 · Gaz is going to show you how to take a lead fall. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay Mar 23, 2024 · Overall, belaying with a Grigri increases longevity because you don’t have to worry about death gripping the rope as you might with an ATC. We will teach you how to properly lead belay with a Grigri or ATC, clip safely, set up a top rope anchor, manage the rope, catch a lead fall & take a lead fall, discuss different scenarios that happen in outdoor lead climbing and then educate the climber on how to safely handle each situation. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling This video cover indoor lead climbing and passing your indoor lead climbing test at the gym. Experienced climbers felt that using it felt very similar to operating a regular Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Verso. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Jul 8, 2021 · What is ATC Climbing Anyway? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. Headlamp lives on my helmet. Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. Aug 28, 2021 · My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. Here are our in-depth reviews. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). 7 to 10. Many climbers enjoy lead belaying with a device with such a simple design because of how smoothly they pay out slack as the lead climber ascends. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. If your blocking carabine A description of the proper technique for lead belaying for sport or traditional rock climbing. When I started lead belay this year, the first comments I got were promising. Any tubular style belay device like an ATC, ATC-XP, or DMM Pivot will be a much better choice. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! Belaying is a foundational skill that climbing classes teach early on and instruction from a qualified teacher is essential. Using it feels natural and it works well for Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Do you mean like how you would belay with a grigri with your break hand holding the rope and on the cam? I'm planning to use this for lead belaying both indoors and outdoors (only sport climbing for now) - is there a reason why you're looking to switch from Mega to Giga Jul?. This content is intended for informational and educational purposes only and is NOT a substitute for professional instruction under the supervision of a qualified rock climbing instructor or guide Basic Technique Lead Climbing Clinic: This clinic is for individuals interested in entering the exciting world of lead climbing! The first session includes fundamental lead climbing skills, such as proper clipping methods, identifying dangerous foot placements, mock leading, mock lead belaying, and rope management. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. How to pass a belay certification? Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. 9 or greater routes. When the second reaches the belay, tie off the rope’s brake side with an overhand on a bight (clip this off to an anchor point or back it up with a carabiner if you wish). Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. Before top roping, lead climbing, or using the auto belay on your own, you must take and pass the required test or orientation first. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. One annoyance that can distract is your carabiner spinning around when you make the transition from slack to tension. Nov 6, 2022 · Yes, you can lead belay with an ATC. Here’s a review from an REI expert. However, since the GRIGRI is an assisted braking device, it can add a layer of security and can make aspects of lead belaying more efficient, so long as it's being used correctly. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. The ATC-Pilot is ideal at the gym or single-pitch cragging, and it is similar to the GriGri in The worldwide known climber, Chris Sharma, is giving all his advice to explain the best way to belay while catching a fall with maximum security for either the climber or the belayer. Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. Eventually, you can upgrade to a device like the ATC Guide, or Petzl Reverso for outside multi-pitch routes. Personally, not a big fan for all the "minimalist" sport climbing devices (think ATC Pilot, Mega Jul). According to BD, these grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided Walk into your lead-belay class confident in your understanding of the basics, starting with this coverage of the following: Rope Prep for Lead Belaying How To Lead Belay Additional Safety Considerations Rope Prep for Lead Belaying Before you start lead belaying, do these three things to set yourself up for success. You made an excellent choice! Feb 21, 2020 · We always kept our brake hand down when belaying with the Smart, which is the recommended technique. The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches. ) Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. It depends on the strength of the anchor. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic ATC. Although it sounds like in your case there was too much slack in the system. Make sure you clip the load stand of your rope, clipped into the belay device correctly, clipped into anchors… Always double check everything! Your only partner in rope solos in your belay device and it won't double check you. In most cases, the only difference is that you will be secured to the anchor with the rope or a PAS. Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a summit experience with your partner on a Aug 17, 2019 · Advisory Tube and plate style belay devices are often used for multi-pitch climbing, particularly if double or twin ropes are used. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. My final note would be, if you’re a pre-2009 Grigri user, to not go back and forth between the two devices, to avoid the belay confusion described above. Being taught well will also ensure you develop good habits in climbing and belaying. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. It's usually the opposite of this because of the locking system of the gri-gri. Rapping is similar. Verbally explain what you are doing every step of the way. Learn how to rappel on ATC-style devices. Bomber bolted anchor: belay off the anchor. Rope SoloingAlways know how you are attached. There are a variety of tubular belay device designs on the market today (i. Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device. Aug 2, 2023 · Lead climbing and belaying effectively involve many nuances. Big whippers are easier on the climber if you can dynamic belay Jun 16, 2018 · Set up and use Setting up the devices is exactly the same, with the rope going through just as you would an ATC with grooves. As the lead belayer, you have the important responsibility of how to catch a fall if your climber takes a big fall while lead climbing. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. This informs the staff member who’s testing you that you know what you’re doing. I carry an ATC and belay accordingly to what is needed. The way I use these is to always have one hand around the rope and on the device while the other gives and takes slack. Weighing in at 2. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Giga Jul combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-blocking all in one single device. Nov 15, 2016 · The geometry of the ATC-Pilot makes it easier for a belayer to catch (and hold) a fall by increasing the friction on the rope. 3x Spare Lockers. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Managing the amount of slack in the rope system is important to prevent dangerous falls while also allowing the leader to move up with minimal resistance. As far as biners go, theyre all pretty much the same. How to use and safely belay using an Air Traffic Controller (ATC). Reply reply cordelette_arete • Reply reply More replies HappyInNature • Reply reply stille • Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. It gets easier! It's a new skill to you and practice makes perfect. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. And a more radical climber in general! Hey! I regularly lead in my gym using a Black Diamond ATC-XP. Feb 22, 2020 · This is the most common and popular belay device on the market today, and for good reason. Lead belaying with a GRIGRI requires a little getting used to if you originally learned with an ATC. The GriGri has a mechanism that will grab hard and not allow very much at all. If you're new to belaying, learn on one of these and get I'm a little surprised your gym allows ATCs, unless I'm missing something? My gym requires assisted belay devices like a GriGri for top rope and lead belay. g. The other being that they twist the ropes. Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. There is often a lot of debate on exactly how to belay—with this article, the debate will be answered once and for all. Clear images on the device and a lack of moving parts helped even the newest, and youngest, of our testers properly May 12, 2016 · Lead belaying is more complicated that just delivering slack. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. To bring a second climber up to join the lead climber at a belay stance, the method of taking in slack rope shown in this video does not work, because the live rope needs to be pulled upwards through the device rather than downwards. ” An ATC is actually one specific model created by Black Diamond, but it has become the mainstream term for tubular, just like a bandage is known as a Band-Aid and tissues are often called Kleenex. I used a mega jul for the first time belaying a friend on lead (trad) because he wanted it for the auto-braking instead of my ATC guide. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. I’ve was wondering about those. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Aug 4, 2021 · From Basics to Advanced Techniques that help you to become an Independent Climber capable of understanding the Safety of any Climbing Situation. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. It also allows rappelling in both standard and auto-blocking modes. I love not screaming. Lead Belay Both devices are a bit difficult to lead belay with the first time, but get more intuitive with use. Unlike the standard ATC, however, it only has one tube. It costs very little and last a long time. ). Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. Just keep one hand on the brake side and use the other hand on the climber side to pull the rope through. Jul 29, 2024 · In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. This will highlights good practice for belaying rock climbers who are going to lead either sport or trad. [Photo] Andrew Councell In addition to the brake-assist (“thumb mode”) using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or “guide mode” for belaying climbers from above. , Kong Gigi) 2. Jan 16, 2020 · Belay Certification Test Tips If lead climbing is available at your gym, be sure to ask if you’ll need to know how to catch a lead fall as a part of the belay certification test. As he wishes. This article covers the basics of top-rope belaying, but is not meant to replace hands-on learning. If the climber should fall Nov 12, 2020 · But top rope belay is very straightfoward. Climbing How To Search "lead belaying" @BeingManda The soft catch, how to lead belay a climbing fall. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. There is a fraction of a second where you may have a bit of slack between your brake hand and the ATC and you may not be strong/quick enough to keep that little not, so it will slip through. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX assisted-braking belay device cleverly uses a rotating wheel inside the cam to relieve a universal problem: unwanted activation when feeding out slack to a lead climber. Belaying is normal for both, but the BD definitely has more friction pulling the rope through. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. , Kong Oka) 3. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. You can also use an ATC to rappel or abseil, either on twin rope strands or a single fixed strand. I applied the same diligence to everything, but where top rope belay is pretty much just mechanical, lead belay has way more skills that come into it. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). so be a good partner to yourself and double check your systems and gear! Educate yourself! Knowledge is your lightest and I no longer let people lead belay me with an ATC or any non assisted breaking device. This article will look into how to rappel with ATC devices. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. I am looking into purchasing my first harness and belay device – during the course we were taught to belay with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot and were also introduced to resistance devices like the Ohm for bigger weight differences. Jul 17, 2020 · Learning how to lead climb and lead belay properly can be a matter of life and death – for yourself, as well as other people. End of story. May 9, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. In turn, this will make you a more trustworthy and appealing climbing partner. rhj fdhee qwtgubv ctnfh nhz bzct cncxw vqqmqf oqlv ogx